LJETNA BURA

NEW FIRST-ASCENT ROUTE

This is a newly established, bolt-free, traditionally protected multi-pitch route. It is 135 metres long and consists of three pitches.

IMPORTANT INFORMATION ABOUT THE PROTECTION

This is not a sport route.

There are no bolts or bolted belay stations anywhere on the route. All intermediate protection must be placed by the lead climber using removable protection. The belay stations must also be built in the traditional manner, using removable protection and suitable natural features where available.

During the first ascent, we used the French numerical grading scale only as a temporary reference to estimate the technical difficulty of individual sections while climbing. These provisional grades were later converted to the UIAA scale, which is more appropriate for describing the route in an alpine context.

The French grades should therefore not be interpreted as an indication that the route is bolted, equipped or protected like a sport-climbing route. They refer only to the approximate technical difficulty of the climbing moves.

The availability and quality of protection, the distance between possible placements, the seriousness of the climbing and the psychological demands of the route must be considered separately from the technical grade.

PITCH 1

Length: 55 m Grade: UIAA V / V+

An enjoyable and flowing opening pitch, with most of the climbing technically around French 5a–5b.

The movement is pleasant and relatively continuous, offering a good introduction to the character of the route.

PITCH 2

Length: 45 m Grade: UIAA V, occasionally V+

The first section is approximately French 5a, followed by a ledge that allows for easier movement.

The route then continues at a similar level of difficulty, with occasional passages that may reach approximately French 5b.

PITCH 3

Length: 35 m Grade: UIAA VII−, possibly VII

The final pitch is the most demanding and serious part of the route.

The crux is located on a compact slab in the upper third of the pitch, where opportunities for placing reliable intermediate protection are very limited.

The climbing follows extremely small and sparse holds and relies mainly on friction, precise footwork and small footholds. It requires calm, controlled and carefully considered movement.

This is a sustained and technically demanding section, provisionally estimated at approximately French 6a+ to 6b.

Because of the limited protection possibilities and the bolt-free, traditionally protected nature of the route, this section may feel considerably more serious than the technical grade alone suggests.

FEEDBACK ON THE GRADE

Experienced alpinists and traditional climbers are warmly invited to repeat the route and share their assessment of its difficulty.

As this is a newly established route, additional opinions will help us determine the most accurate and realistic grades for each pitch.

After climbing the route, please leave your proposed grades and any relevant observations in the comments.